today was an awesome day! for the first time i got up to my knees several times on my shortboard. we got to linda mar at high tide and the set waves were hh to oh. i stayed by the river and emily went down to boat docks to try to catch some real waves. we were out for about two hours and both survived and had a great time. emily caught one nice hh ride, and i caught more stomach rides than i could count. putting on the wetsuit and getting out in the water is really helping my recovery, both physically and mentally. great day! :)

#146 / #52 for 2011 2:00 pm